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There are so many people out there who will tell you that you can't.
What you've got to do is turn around and say "Watch me."
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We dream of the perfect wave, the perfect job, the perfect house.
When we get there, we dream of something else.
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Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.
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It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.
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They come out of nowhere, instantaneously materialize and just as quickly they break and vanish. Chasing after such fleeting mirages is a complete waste of time. That is what I choose to do with my life.
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The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.
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Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your own two ears.
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It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't.
So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.
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The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
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People can do whatever they want if they just set their heart to it, and just never give up, and just go out there and do it.
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Courage doesn't mean you don't get afraid. Courage means you don't let fear stop you.
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Everyone gets caught inside when surfing.
You have 2 options. Give up or paddle outside. Life is the same. Keep paddling!
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Exercising underwater also creates tremendous benefits by challenging your body in ways you can't on dry land.
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If you can look at one of these waves and you don't believe that there's something greater than we are, then you've got some serious analyzing to do and you should go sit under a tree for a very long time.
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People don't want to do new things if they think they're going to be bad at them or people are going to laugh at them. You have to be willing to subject yourself to failure, to be bad, to fall on your head and do it again, and try stuff that you've never done in order to be the best you can be.
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Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
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If you are doing what you love then you're doing what is right.
Desire and passion resonate with your body, mind and soul. When you're passionate you don't question, judge, criticize, second-guess, or doubt. It's that passion that will fuel the fire to overcome challenges.
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There is wisdom in waves. Some surfers see it right away, others never do. To find success in surfing, we must learn to be in harmony with nature. This will bring a sense of peace. By sharing this peace, and contributing to other people's happiness, we can find the true meaning of life. Keep surfing . . .
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Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.
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The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
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Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!
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Love is bigger then a tsunami, stronger then any fear.
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I think it's just really made me appreciate life more.
I've known people die before that and I was really rattled by it but when it hit so close to home ... it was just so different. I just thought about what I really wanted to do. I want to be a pro surfer and that's what I'm going to do.
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It's all about where your mind's at
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I surf because it keeps my life at an even keel, without it I would tip into the oblivion.
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Life is full of what-ifs. You can’t let it hold you back. If you do, you’re not really living at all… just kind of going through the motions with no meaning
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The first time you get a ride on a surf board and you are being propelled along by a wave, it’s probably as close as humans can get to being able to fly like a bird
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Being creative on the waves is challenging, but we each create art in our own way.
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I've been in a poor physical shape many times in my career and I've had some of my best results. My best performances happened because my mind was in the right place. The mind is definitely stronger than the body.
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I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
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Well I'm always working on constantly everything.
I never take the approach that I'm doing as well as I possibly can... I always think there's more and I think if you don't have that, you are not driven to be better.
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Courage, sacrifice, determination, commitment, toughness, heart, talent, guts.
That's what little girls are made of; the heck with sugar and spice.
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You've always got to be aware of why you don't win;
otherwise you'll keep losing. Every mistake is a learning experience and, hopefully, you won't make the same mistake again.
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For those searching for something more than just the norm.
We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.
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Some people have like a certain person, when they're around they get like a gnarly energy. I see it in other people, if a certain person's around they compete really well or something like that. I think it's sort of like that.
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The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.
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I wasn't born a world champion. I just worked really hard to become one.
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There is not one right way to ride a wave.
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When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder.
You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.
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For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
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It's hard for me to describe the joy I felt after I stood up and rode wave in for the first time after the attack. I was incredibly thankful and happy inside. The tiny bit of doubt that would sometimes tell me you'll never surf again was gone in one wave.
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As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.
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In all successful relationships, the man respects the woman - and it takes a special guy to handle a successful woman. You have to be confident in who you are and what you do.
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Fear - It's a fine line between that and pushing yourself.
You definitely reach new heights when you push. But fear is good. Fear keeps us alive. If we didn't have it, we'd be doing crazy things and getting in sticky situations.
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Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do.
It puts your whole world into perspective.
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You gotta go in the mud sometimes to figure who you are.
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If you dont see me on tour, its because I have found happiness away from winning, and that might be the biggest achievement I could ever accomplish.
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Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
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Sometimes I wish I had every different sort of board that I could just bring out for this surf when I feeling like surfing this board. I love riding old single fins and twin fins.
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Make sure your worst enemy doesn’t live between your own two ears.
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If you want the ultimate thrill, you've got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.